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- STRUNCATURA - a PASTA WITH A HISTORY, and LEARNING THE ROPES
Rich in flavour and texture, earthy and wholesome, Struncatura is a beautiful example of how dishes born out of necessity or scarcity, using simple and accessible ingredients, can evolve into traditional dishes that become part of contemporary cuisine. PHOTO RECIPE TEXT-ONLY RECIPE La Stroncatura, or O Struncatura in local Calabrian dialect, is a traditional Calabrian first course made with its namesake pasta, Struncatura , a linguine-style pasta, but thicker and more robust. Made with a blend of whole-wheat flours, it has a dark and coarse texture, ideal for holding sauces. Struncatura is a pasta with a history. Once a peasant dish, banned and traded underhand, it has evolved into a traditional Calabrian dish, found on most Calabrian menus and served in the finest restaurants. The first Struncatura was produced from milling residues. Leftover bran was swept up from the floor and given to peasants, meant as feed for their livestock. The peasants made pasta with it instead. Because of its unhygienic nature, the pasta was soon banned for human consumption, during which time it was sold underhand, almost like contraband. Today, Struncatura , now of course strictly complying with food standards, is produced by only a handful of mills in Calabria in the region of Reggio Calabria, and mainly around Gioia Tauro, the recognized birthplace of the pasta, where it also enjoys its greatest popularity. Nowadays, the distinct whole-wheat, dark, and coarse pasta can be found on the menus of most restaurants across Calabria. Struncatura is easy and fast to make, and can be prepared while the pasta cooks. It is rich in flavour and texture, earthy, and wholesome. The dish does not seem to follow a particular recipe but more a principle. The original pasta was quite acidic and had an intense flavour, so to mask both the taste and acidity, it was paired with strong-flavoured, locally available ingredients, such as anchovies, sardines, chili, olives, garlic, and olive oil, as well as stale bread. The dish was finished with a sprinkle of garlic-infused breadcrumbs, the so-called poor man's parmesan . My Stroncatura recipe may not be original, but it comes close, following the same principle of adding strong flavours. In this version, I used olive oil, garlic, anchovies, dried small chilli, green olives, and also brined caper berries, the fruit of the caper bush. They are about the size of olives, taste similar to capers, but are milder and usually full of small pink crispy seeds that add a lovely crunch to the pasta. For my bread crumbs, I used stale durum wheat bread. The anchovies add flavour and umami. The pan grattato , or breadcrumbs, provide volume, bulk, and texture. Together with the pasta cooking water, they become thick and creamy. The olives add a grassy tanginess, the chili a pleasant background spice. Brined caper berries add acidity and a delightful crunch. The toasted, garlic-infused breadcrumbs, or poor man's parmesan, brings a lovely crunch with every bite. A sprinkle of chopped parsley adds color and freshness. Sources and interesting reads: My Calabria , by Rosetta Costantino Calabria in Cucina - The Flavours or Calabria , by Valentina Oliveri Wikipedia: Stroncatura The Eternal Table: Pasta and Perseverance Part iii: Struncatura Fondazione Slow Foo: Gioia Tauro Plain Struncatura Pasta Il calice die ebe: Struncatura calabrese la pasta degli scarti How to prepare: STRUNCATURA Rich in flavour and texture, earthy and wholesome, Struncatura is a beautiful example of how dishes born out of necessity or scarcity, using simple and accessible ingredients, can evolve into traditional dishes that become part of contemporary cuisine. TEXT-ONLY RECIPE Recipe source: my interpretation of traditional Struncatura INGREDIENTS Makes 4 Portions 500 g Struncatura/Stroncatura pasta (or the roughest wholewheat linguine you can find) 8 anchovy fillets in olive oil 8 large caper berries 8 green olives 130 g breadcrumbs made from stale Durum Wheat Bread (or other) 2 large garlic cloves 2 small dried chilli 4-5 tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil chopped parsley for serving DIRECTIONS: Gather all the ingredients. Prepare the ingredients: Remove 8 anchovies from the jar, leaving the oil behind. Peel and thinly slice 1 garlic clove, lightly crush the second garlic clove with the back of the knife, then cut it into quarters. Quarter the olives lengthwise, and slice the capers. Put the stale bread into a food processor and process it into breadcrumbs. Boil the pasta: Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Once boiling, add salt. Drop the pasta into the water and cook until al dente, in my case 12 minutes. Check the pasta a couple of minutes before the timer ends to make sure it is not overcooking. Meanwhile, prepare the bread crumb topping (poor man's parmesan): while the pasta is boiling, heat a small frying pan over medium heat. Add the quartered garlic, followed by half of the bread crumbs. Toast them until they become golden-brown, crunchy, and fragrant, stirring occasionally and making sure not to brown them too much. Once toasted, turn the heat to its lowest setting and keep them warm. Prepare the sauce: While the breadcrumbs are toasting, prepare the sauce: heat a large frying pan over medium heat. Add 4-5 tablespoons of olive oil, 1 large sliced garlic, and 2 dried chilies. Sauté the garlic on medium-low heat until lightly browned (do not let it turn too dark, as it will get bitter), meanwhile infusing the oil with the chilies for about 3-4 minutes. Add the anchovies and allow them to melt into the oil. Once the anchovies are dissolved, add the olives, capers, and remaining bread crumbs and a splash of pasta cooking water. Stir until the bread crumbs melt into a thick sauce. Add more cooking water as needed to achieve a thick and creamy sauce consistency. Drain the pasta and mix it with the sauce: Drain the pasta, reserving a small cup of the cooking water. Add the drained pasta to the pan and mix it thoroughly with the sauce, adding some pasta cooking liquid to make a creamy sauce. Make sure to incorporate all the bread and ingredients that tend to accumulate at the bottom of the pan. Serve: Serve the Struncatura immediately on hot plates, garnished with the toasted breadcrumbs and chopped parsley. Serve the remaining bread crumbs in a bowl on the side. TEXT-ONLY RECIPE STRUNCATURA Rich in flavour and texture, earthy and wholesome, Struncatura is a beautiful example of how dishes born out of necessity or scarcity, using simple and accessible ingredients, can evolve into traditional dishes that become integral to contemporary cuisine. PHOTO RECIPE Recipe source: my interpretation of traditional Struncatura INGREDIENTS: Makes 4 Portions 500 g Struncatura/Stroncatura pasta (or the roughest wholewheat linguine you can find) 8 anchovy fillets in olive oil 8 large caper berries 8 green olives 130 g breadcrumbs made from stale Durum Wheat Bread (or other) 2 large garlic cloves 2 small dried chilli 4-5 tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil chopped parsley for serving DIRECTIONS: Gather all the ingredients. Prepare the ingredients: Remove 8 anchovies from the jar, leaving the oil behind. Peel and thinly slice 1 garlic clove, lightly crush the second garlic clove with the back of the knife, then cut it into quarters. Quarter the olives lengthwise, and slice the capers. Put the stale bread into a food processor and process it into breadcrumbs. Boil the pasta: Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Once boiling, add salt. Drop the pasta into the water and cook it until al dente, in my case 12 minutes. Check the pasta a couple of minutes before the timer ends to make sure it is not overcooking. Meanwhile, prepare the bread crumb topping (poor man's parmesan): while the pasta is boiling, heat a small frying pan over medium heat. Add the quartered garlic, followed by half of the bread crumbs. Toast them until they become golden-brown, crunchy, and fragrant, stirring occasionally and making sure not to brown them too much. Once toasted, turn the heat to its lowest setting and keep them warm. Prepare the sauce: While the breadcrumbs are toasting, prepare the sauce: heat a large frying pan over medium heat. Add 4-5 tablespoons of olive oil, 1 large sliced garlic, and 2 dried chilies. Sauté the garlic on medium-low heat until lightly browned (do not let it turn too dark, as it will get bitter), meanwhile infusing the oil with the chilies for about 3-4 minutes. Add the anchovies and allow them to melt into the oil. Once the anchovies are dissolved, add the olives, capers, and remaining bread crumbs and a splash of pasta cooking water. Stir until the bread crumbs melt into a thick sauce. Add more cooking water as needed to achieve a thick and creamy sauce consistency. Drain the pasta and mix it with the sauce: Drain the pasta, reserving a small cup of the cooking water. Add the drained pasta to the pan and mix it thoroughly with the sauce, adding some pasta cooking liquid to make a creamy sauce. Make sure to incorporate all the bread and ingredients that tend to accumulate at the bottom of the pan. Serve: Serve the Struncatura immediately on hot plates, garnished with the toasted breadcrumbs and chopped parsley. Serve the remaining bread crumbs in a bowl on the side.
- MILK-BRAISED PORK - or: BEST DISH EVER?
Slowly braised, tender, and flavourful pork in a luscious, creamy sauce infused with black peppercorns, rosemary, and garlic. An effortless lifesaver for the busy winter holidays and perfect for entertaining. PHOTO RECIPE TEXT-ONLY RECIPE TIPS FOR MILK-BRAISED PORK It's the end of January. We've finally returned to Calabria after a long Christmas break in Austria. During the holidays, with family members traveling from far and staying together for a while, we always spend a lot of time cooking. Thankfully, everyone pitches in, and we take turns preparing our favourite dishes, both traditional Austrian and other. During this busy period, one of my go-to dishes is MILK-BRAISED PORK. It’s a lifesaver because it practically cooks itself. It's also one of our favourites and once even received the highest praise from a French guest, who, after putting down his fork, declared it the best thing he's ever eaten. I very much doubt that, but the compliment has stuck with me ever since. I can't claim credit for it, unfortunately, as the original recipe comes from the ROUXBE PROFESSIONAL COOK CERTIFICATION course, that I completed many years ago, so all the praise belongs to them. Their team dedicate months perfecting their dishes, resulting in incredibly delicious and foolproof recipes. I tweak their recipe just slightly by trussing the meat before cooking, varying the amount of garlic and rosemary based on my diner's preferences, and adjusting the quantity of cream and milk to suit the size of the meat and pot I'm using. See also TIPS FOR MILK-BRAISED PORK below. The dish is so easy and fast to make, with most of the cooking taking place in the oven. The meat is trussed, covered with crushed black peppercorns, seasoned, and quickly seared on all sides in hot oil before the liquids and aromatics are added to the pot. The meat is then left to braise low and slow in the oven until it is fork-tender, juicy, and flavourful. After cooking, the pork is broken into smaller pieces, the sauce strained, reduced, blended, seasoned, and poured over the meat before serving. The result is far more impressive than the effort involved. During the prolonged low and slow braising, the meat soaks up all the flavours from the liquids and aromatics and becomes juicy and tender. Meanwhile, the cream, milk, and spices transform into a delicious, velvety sauce. Accompanied by a side of homemade Gnocchi Sardi, Cavatelli, or your favourite pasta, the combination is truly heavenly. TIPS FOR MILK-BRAISED PORK: You will need a casserole dish with a tight-fitting lid that is both stove-and-oven-proof, like a Le Creuset pot, to sear and braise the meat. And also a large sieve and an immersion blender to finish the sauce. Choose a suitable size braising pot with a tight fitting lid: The pot should snugly fit the meat: there should be no more than 3 cm gap between the meat and the sides of the pot. The braising liquid, once added, should rise up the meat by two-thirds. In case your pot is much larger, you will need more liquid than stated in the recipe. If it's smaller, you'll need less, and although this is fine, you might not end up with a lot of sauce. If changing the amount of liquid added, adjust the quantities of the aromatics accordingly. Pork neck or upper shoulder are perfect cuts for this dish due to their marbling with fat. As the collagen in the meat breaks down during cooking, the result is flavourful, tender, and juicy meat. Trussing the meat: Although the original recipe does not call for this step, I prefer to truss the meat before cooking. This helps it to retain its shape and cook evenly. To truss the meat, wrap the twine around one end, a few centimetres from the side, pull the meat tight, and secure the twine with a knot on top. Repeat this process along the length of the meat at 3-4 cm intervals until you reach the other end. Then, wrap the twine also once around the long side of the meat, pull tight and secure it firmly. Trim off any excess twine. Alternatively, this video shows a professional method for trussing meat. The black peppercorns add a distinct taste and are a key flavour element of the sauce. Make sure to use high-quality, aromatic peppercorns. They also add a subtle acidity that complements the rich sauce. One tablespoon seems a lot, but after cooking, the peppercorns are strained out, leaving just their flavour and aroma, rather than an intense spiciness in the sauce. Make sure to use full-fat cream and milk. Low-fat alternatives tend to separate when subjected to high heat and don't emulsify like full-fat versions. The sauce will look separated after cooking despite using full-fat products, but don't worry; this is completely normal. Once you have removed the meat, strained and reduced the sauce, use an immersion blender to emulsify the cream and bring the sauce back together. Reduce the sauce until it coats the back of a spoon. When running your finger along the coated spoon, you should see a clear separation line. The braising time may vary depending on the size of the pork cut. You will know the meat is done when it becomes fork-tender, meaning the fibers can be easily pulled apart with two forks. Near the end of cooking time, when you remove the meat from the oven to turn it, do a test. If the meat doesn't pull apart easily, continue cooking, turning and testing. The dish can also be cooked at a lower temperature (130-140ºC) for a longer period of time. Serve the pork with homemade Gnocchi Sardi, Cavatelli, or your favourite pasta, but opt for a type with a rough surface that holds the sauce well. The dish can be prepared ahead of time. Once the sauce is finished and emulsified, pour it back over the meat, leave the dish to cool completely, then cover it, and store it in the refrigerator until use. As the flavours continue to infuse the meat, the dish only gets better. To reheat the dish or any leftovers, place the dish, covered with aluminium foil, into a medium-hot oven and reheat slowly until the meat reaches an internal temperature of 65ºC. Be careful, as excessive heat can cause the sauce to split again. If it happens, you can remove the meat, blend the sauce once more, and then return the meat before serving. Serve the dish family-style or on preheated plates with your favourite pasta, vegetables, or a large bowl of green salad on the side. How to prepare: MILK-BRAISED PORK Slowly braised, tender, and flavourful pork in a luscious, creamy sauce infused with black peppercorns, rosemary, and garlic. An effortless lifesaver for the busy winter holidays and perfect for entertaining. TEXT-ONLY RECIPE TIPS FOR MILK-BRAISED PORK Recipe based on: MILK-BRAISED PORK by ROUXBE Active Time: circa 1 hr, Total Time: 3-4 hours, depending on the size of the meat and braising time INGREDIENTS: Serves 6 1.4-1.6 kg pork neck (upper pork shoulder, or pork butt), marbled with fat 1 tablespoon good quality whole black peppercorns 500 ml heavy cream (minimum 33% fat) 500 ml full-fat milk (3.5-3.6%) (the quantities of cream and milk depend on the size of the meat and the pot used - see also TIPS FOR MILK-BRAISED PORK ) 2 teaspoons grapeseed or olive oil 4 cloves garlic 2 sprigs rosemary circa 2 teaspoons kosher salt (use less if you use normal sea salt) sea salt (to taste) freshly ground black pepper (to taste) Equipment: Stove-and-oven-proof casserole dish with tight-fitting lid (such as Le Creuset), butcher's/kitchen twine, large baking tray, oven-proof dish, saucepan, fine-mesh sieve, immersion blender DIRECTIONS: Preheat the oven to 150ºC fan (300ºF). Gather all the ingredients . Prepare the spices: Peel the garlic. Crush the peppercorns: put 1 tablespoon of peppercorns on a cutting board and crush them with the bottom of a small saucepan. Rinse and truss the meat: Rinse the meat under cold water, then thoroughly dry it with kitchen paper. This step is important for proper searing. For information on trussing meat, see TIPS FOR MILK-BRAISED PORK Season the meat : Roll the trussed pork in the crushed peppercorns so that all sides are covered. Generously season with salt, then press the spices into the meat so that they adhere well. Choose a suitable size brasing pot with a tight fitting lid: The pot should snugly fit the meat: there should be no more than 3 cm gap between the meat and the sides of the pot. The braising liquid, once added, should rise up the meat by two-thirds. In case your pot is much larger, you will need more liquid than stated in the recipe. If it's smaller, you'll need less, and although this is fine, you might not end up with a lot of sauce. If changing the amount of liquid added, adjust the quantities of the aromatics accordingly. Sear the meat: Heat the casserole over medium-high heat, then add 2 teaspoons of oil. Once the oil is hot, add the meat to the pot and sear it quickly on all sides, including the ends, until it is lightly browned but not darkened. To sear the ends, use kitchen tongs to hold the meat upright. Add the flavourings and liquids: Once the meat is seared, lower the heat and add 4 cloves of garlic and 2 sprigs of rosemary to the pot. Then pour in equal amounts of cream and milk, about 500 ml each. The liquid should reach at least two-thirds up the pork. If necessary, add or omit equal amounts of milk and cream until you achieve the right level. Braise the meat, turning it over every 30 minutes: Place a baking tray in the centre of the preheated oven. Bring the liquid to a simmer, then cover the pot with the lid, and place it on the tray in the oven. Allow it to cook for about 3 to 4 hours, or until the meat becomes fork-tender, turning the meat over every 30 minutes. Near the end of cooking time, use two forks to test if the meat pulls apart easily. If the fibres separate without effort, the meat is fork-tender and ready. If not, continue cooking and turning the meat as needed. Note: When turning the meat, make sure to wear oven gloves to prevent burns. Remove the pot from the oven, and quickly close the oven door to retain the heat. Turn the meat over, replace the lid, and return the pot to the oven. Repeat this process every 30 minutes until the meat is fork-tender and fully cooked. Strain the sauce: When the meat is fork-tender, lower the oven temperature. Take the meat out of the cream and transfer it to an ovenproof dish. Strain the cream through a fine-mesh sieve into a saucepan. With the back of a spoon, stir and press the sauce and milk solids through the sieve until only the dry aromatics remain. Make sure to also scrape the underside of the sieve to incorporate all the flavourful solids that have accumulated there. The cream will look spit at this moment, but don't worry, this is perfectly normal. Reduce the sauce: Place the sauce on the stovetop over medium-high heat and bring it to a gentle boil. Allow it to reduce by about one-third. This may take 15-20 minutes. Cook the pasta: While the sauce is reducing, cook the pasta. Shred the meat: Cut the string off the meat, then use two forks to separate it into smaller pieces. Cover the meat with aluminium foil and keep it warm in the oven. Finish the sauce: Once the sauce has reduced to your desired consistency, blend it with an immersion blender to emulsify the cream. If needed, return the pot to the stovetop to reduce the sauce further. At the end, check for seasoning and add more salt and freshly milled black pepper as necessary. Finish the dish: Remove the meat from the oven and pour the finished sauce over. Keep the dish warm in the oven until serving. Serve: Serve either family-style or on preheated plates with your favourite pasta on the side. TEXT-ONLY RECIPE MILK-BRAISED PORK Slowly braised, tender, and flavourful pork in a luscious, creamy sauce infused with black peppercorns, rosemary, and garlic. An effortless lifesaver for the busy winter holidays and perfect for entertaining. PHOTO RECIPE TIPS FOR MILK-BRAISED PORK Recipe based on: MILK-BRAISED PORK by ROUXBE Active Time: circa 1 hr, Total Time: 3-4 hours, depending on the size of the meat and braising time INGREDIENTS: Serves 6 1.4-1.6 kg pork neck (upper pork shoulder, or pork butt), marbled with fat 1 tablespoon good quality whole black peppercorns 500 ml heavy cream (minimum 33% fat) 500 ml full-fat milk (3.5-3.6%) (the quantities of cream and milk depend on the size of the meat and the pot used - see also TIPS FOR MILK-BRAISED PORK ) 2 teaspoons grapeseed or olive oil 4 cloves garlic 2 sprigs rosemary circa 2 teaspoons kosher salt (use less if you use normal sea salt) sea salt (to taste) freshly ground black pepper (to taste) Equipment: Stove-and-oven-proof casserole dish with tight-fitting lid (such as Le Creuset), butcher's/kitchen twine, large baking tray, oven-proof dish, saucepan, fine-mesh sieve, immersion blender DIRECTIONS: Preheat the oven to 150ºC fan (300ºF). Gather all the ingredients . Prepare the spices: Peel the garlic. Crush the peppercorns: put 1 tablespoon of peppercorns on a cutting board and crush them with the bottom of a small saucepan. Rinse and truss the meat: Rinse the meat under cold water, then thoroughly dry it with kitchen paper. This step is important for proper searing. For information on trussing meat, see TIPS FOR MILK-BRAISED PORK Season the meat : Roll the trussed pork in the crushed peppercorns so that all sides are covered. Generously season with salt, then press the spices into the meat so that they adhere well. Choose a suitable size brasing pot with a tight fitting lid: The pot should snugly fit the meat: there should be no more than 3 cm gap between the meat and the sides of the pot. The braising liquid, once added, should rise up the meat by two-thirds. In case your pot is much larger, you will need more liquid than stated in the recipe. If it's smaller, you'll need less, and although this is fine, you might not end up with a lot of sauce. If changing the amount of liquid added, adjust the quantities of the aromatics accordingly. Sear the meat: Heat the casserole over medium-high heat, then add 2 teaspoons of oil. Once the oil is hot, add the meat to the pot and sear it quickly on all sides, including the ends, until it is lightly browned but not darkened. To sear the ends, use kitchen tongs to hold the meat upright. Add the flavourings and liquids: Once the meat is seared, lower the heat and add 4 cloves of garlic and 2 sprigs of rosemary to the pot. Then pour in equal amounts of cream and milk, about 500 ml each. The liquid should reach at least two-thirds up the pork. If necessary, add or omit equal amounts of milk and cream until you achieve the right level. Braise the meat, turning it over every 30 minutes: Place a baking tray in the centre of the preheated oven. Bring the liquid to a simmer, then cover the pot with the lid, and place it on the tray in the oven. Allow it to cook for about 3 to 4 hours, or until the meat becomes fork-tender, turning the meat over every 30 minutes. Near the end of cooking time, use two forks to test if the meat pulls apart easily. If the fibres separate without effort, the meat is fork-tender and ready. If not, continue cooking and turning the meat as needed. Note: When turning the meat, make sure to wear oven gloves to prevent burns. Remove the pot from the oven, and quickly close the oven door to retain the heat. Turn the meat over, replace the lid, and return the pot to the oven. Repeat this process every 30 minutes until the meat is fork-tender and fully cooked. Strain the sauce: When the meat is fork-tender, lower the oven temperature. Take the meat out of the cream and transfer it to an ovenproof dish. Strain the cream through a fine-mesh sieve into a saucepan. With the back of a spoon, stir and press the sauce and milk solids through the sieve until only the dry aromatics remain. Make sure to also scrape the underside of the sieve to incorporate all the flavourful solids that have accumulated there. The cream will look spit at this moment, but don't worry, this is perfectly normal. Reduce the sauce: Place the sauce on the stovetop over medium-high heat and bring it to a gentle boil. Allow it to reduce by about one-third. This may take 15-20 minutes. Cook the pasta: While the sauce is reducing, cook the pasta. Shred the meat: Cut the string off the meat, then use two forks to separate it into smaller pieces. Cover the meat with aluminium foil and keep it warm in the oven. Finish the sauce: Once the sauce has reduced to your desired consistency, blend it with an immersion blender to emulsify the cream. If needed, return the pot to the stovetop to reduce the sauce further. At the end, check for seasoning and add more salt and freshly milled black pepper as necessary. Finish the dish: Remove the meat from the oven and pour the finished sauce over. Serve: Serve either family-style or on preheated plates with your favourite pasta on the side.
- WINTER, a COLD... and a HEALTHY DOSE OF LOCAL VANILLA ORANGES
Beautiful, ripe, untreated, and super juicy - Calabrian Vanilla Oranges. Winter in Calabria can be a little hard, especially when the heavy rain sets in during January and February, and the temperatures go down to 2-5 degrees during some nights - not really complaining. Being close to the sea, we are also still getting used to the humidity, both outside and in the house. But, as the rest of the year is super busy and full of things to do, the colder season is also the perfect time to get jobs done around the house, cook new dishes, bake sourdough bread, and finally: type up some recipes. During this period, we also travel a bit, visiting family and friends. Unfortunately while away last week I caught an awful cold. Wrapped up in my 'bear' blanket, sniffing and sneezing, and not able to be out and about enjoying the first rays of sunshine, I'm feeling rather sorry for myself - I have no idea yet where this is going... Fortunately, just before we left, our friend Salvatore gifted us a large crate of local oranges - nothing beats a good old healthy dose of Vitamin C to get better. We tried to eat them, but were really surprised, as they are just sweet, with next to no acidity. They have a lot of big pips, almost like Seville Oranges; but unlike Seville Oranges, they are not strong and bitter in flavour, but rather sweet and mild in taste and not at all sour - and I mean: really not sour. .. Upon inquiry, I was told that they are Arance Vaniglia , Vanilla Oranges. I had never heard of them. I googled them and found a Sicilian orange called Arancia Vaniglia Apireno , Apireno Vanilla Orange, a sweet, low acidic orange, with an aroma of vanilla. Only that seems to have no pips at all, so it's still different, although its description came pretty close. I found some sweet oranges that are grown in certain areas in Calabria, but none of them seemed to have the amount of pips, so I guess it could be a variety of the Apireno orange(?). Beautiful, ripe, untreated, and super juicy, I was determined to use up mine, so in the end I decided to make Spremuta (freshly pressed orange juice). Our little lemon tree is full of ripe lemons right now, so, still not convinced about the lack of acidity, I added a lemon, and that did the trick. These oranges are so juicy, ten oranges and one lemon make a good litre of juice. It said in one of the articles I read, due to their low acidity, these oranges are perfect for people with gastric disorders or reflux issues. I think they also add perfect liquid and natural sugar to smoothies and should be a great addition to savoury dishes. Must google more uses... Two litres done, another five to go... vitamin C - tick! Sunshine, here I come! PS, if you do recognise this orange, please let me know...
- My first 50-50 WHEAT SOURDOUGH BREAD, or: COW PAT, as husband called it...
A fantastic bread recipe from an expert baker, ruined in the hands of Eva... However, not everything that could have gone wrong did go wrong... It's mid-March. Outside, the world is flying around, caught in a warm storm blowing from Africa. My laundry is drying in no time, as if in a tumble dryer, including the items on the clothes rack that the wind blew into the cactus bed... husband's pyjamas might be a bit prickly tonight... ;-) The wind brought with it a lovely warmth - perhaps spring is finally arriving in Bella Calabria. Meanwhile, I'm on a sourdough bread mission. I promised husband to make a lighter sourdough bread suitable for daily breakfast. I have been baking with sourdough for more than a decade, but the only thing I successfully manage is my version of Austrian Rye & Spelt Sourdough bread. The loaves turn out quite nice, if I may say so myself. They have the typical characteristics of rye bread, with a fairly dense crumb. Mine is also packed with spices, like caraway seeds, coriander, and fennel. It's very similar to the one at home, and my favourite. In Austria, and particularly in my family, it's our staple bread, and we enjoy it at any time of day. However, it's a little too hearty for Italian husband for breakfast, and I've been promising him a lighter sourdough wheat bread for a while. Rye sourdough bread is super easy because it contains a small amount of gluten, meaning, the dough cannot trap a lot of air, resulting in its characteristic fine crumb. All you need to do is make a pre-dough, combine everything into a main dough the following day, rest, shape, and bake. Wheat sourdough bread is another story and requires skill and knowledge. I've tried making it several times, but each attempt has been unsuccessful - needless to say, we did eat every bread to the last crumb. Wheat contains a lot of gluten, which must be properly developed to create a gluten network capable of trapping air and carbon dioxide, allowing the bread to rise and create an open crumb, desired for wheat breads. Correct fermenting, timing, kneading, and temperature, as well as the type of flour, all have an effect on the final crumb and crust—the art is knowing how to get them right. While searching for more information, I recently discovered a baker who has become my new bread hero. His name is Marcel Paa . He is a professional baker, bread sommelier, and pastry chef in Switzerland, and has a YouTube channel where he shares his professional knowledge, tips, and tricks. He is incredibly precise, explains everything in detail, and puts all the bread baking information that is flying around the internet back into perspective. His passion for bread is contagious. Marcel makes bread baking look so easy in his videos, and based on the comments on his channel and blog, his recipes really work well, as everyone shares their success stories. Well not quite everyone... Armed with his advice, and full of good intentions, I tried to bake one of his breads today: Sauerteig Laib mit 50:50 Vollkorn und Weizenmehl , a sourdough bread made with 50% wheat and 50% whole-wheat flour. I was so full of confidence that this time I was going to get it right! Yesterday, I refreshed my mother dough and a pre-sourdough. This morning, I prepared a cooked dough, allowed it to cool, then combined and kneaded all the ingredients into a final dough that I left to bulk-ferment for three hours. Then I shaped it and left it to ferment for another hour before baking. Unfortunately, what was meant to be a beautifully raised loaf ended up resembling more of a flatbread. It was all fine until I made the main dough. It was so wet, nearly unmanageable, not like the springy, beautiful ball that Marcel Paa created. The folding made a difference, but still nothing like I had seen in Marcel's video. I noticed it already during kneading and was tempted to add more flour, but in the end, I stuck with the exact recipe to have a benchmark - me versus recipe. Marcel suggests flattening the dough a bit before final fermentation... my dough was already like a frisbee. When it finally went in the oven, I thought all was lost, as it continued to spread. As it baked, it began to look more promising, starting to rise in the middle. Finally, at least we'd have some surface to put our honey on, but instead, all the dough's strength accumulated into a large center dome. The final bread is all dome in the center, and looking like a shoe on the side... Anyway, here it is: my first wheat and wholewheat sourdough bread. When I showed it to my husband, he said: 'Very nice!' Noticing my doubtful face, he eventually dared to say: 'But is it normal for it to be so flat?' I smiled, which encouraged him to dig deeper: 'It looks a bit like a cow pat! :-) (Whatever I bake, we must eat, and I'm sure I also saw a sign of relief in his face: at least it looks edible...) It's not that it's just flat. Properly baked bread is almost uniform in height from one side to the other. Mine has a rounded side, a large dome, and resembles a slipper on the other side. I'm sitting here, typing with one hand, cheese in the other, waiting for it to cool so I can finally cut it and see the crumb. My expectations are small, but my hunger big, so it'll be alright. Now the journey begins: Today's bread is my benchmark. Spreadsheet ready with today's data, I will change one thing at a time to try and improve the bread. First change: bake the bread inside a Dutch oven - this should at least stop it from spreading during baking. While I've been typing, the bread has finally cooled, and we could cut it. It looks just as bad inside as it does outside, with large holes and tunnels. Unfortunately, I have no clue what went wrong or how to fix it - yet! However: after eating our fourth slice, I can honestly say, not all went wrong. The bread has a delightful, shattering crust, and a moist, creamy and flavourful crumb, and we are thoroughly enjoying it. The house is filled with the wonderful aroma of freshly baked bread - so in the end, not all that could have gone wrong, did go wrong... RECIPE: As you can clearly see, I am not there yet with my recipe, but if you are interested, here is Marcel Paa's original: Sauerteig Laib mit 50:50 Vollkorn und Weizenmehl Marcel's Youtube channel: Marcel Paa: Einfach Backen I watch it in German, but many of his videos are available also in English or have English subtitles.
- A CRUSH ON BASIL: HOMEMADE GENOVESE-STYLE BASIL PESTO
Pesto requires no introduction! Everyone knows it, and you're well aware of its deliciousness! However, if you haven't tried homemade Basil Pesto yet, you're certainly in for a wonderful treat. Jump to RECIPE Vibrant, fresh, and nutty, with a beautiful scent, flavour and aroma of basil, cheese, pine nuts, garlic, and Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Basil Pesto is the perfect example of Italian culinary art of transforming a handful of quality ingredients into a truly delicious dish. Pesto is a perfect sauce for HOMEMADE POTATO GNOCCHI , Linguine , Trofie , Spaghetti , and a flavourful addition to Minestrone and Caprese . It can also be used to enhance the flavour of sandwiches and other dishes. The word Pesto comes from the Italian word pestare, meaning to crush or beat. Traditionally, Pesto is prepared by crushing and grinding the ingredients in a (marble) mortar with a (wooden) pestle. This method helps release the essential oils and flavours. Because it is a raw sauce, all the natural flavours of its ingredients are preserved. The process is simple: Garlic and pine nuts are ground with a pinch of salt into a paste, then basil leaves, and oil are added gradually, and crushed and ground with more salt into a vibrant green cream, before the cheeses are added and mixed in, to finish the Pesto. Traditional Pesto Genovese originates from Genoa, the capital of Liguria, a region in northwestern Italy. According to Wikipedia, the ancient Romans made a similar sauce called Moretum (derived from Mortarium meaning grinding bowl), thta was made from cheese, garlic and herbs. Basil was added later when it arrived in Italy from India. Although traditionally made in a mortar & pestle, Pesto but can also be prepared using a food processor. I have tried both, and while the food processor is handy for quick preparation, I still prefer the pestle and mortar. This method preserves a coarser texture of the Pesto, allowing the ingredients to maintain their unique flavours. A food processor may heat the mixture too much, risking oxidation and discolouration of the final pesto. Nonetheless, I have provided both methods below. Whether using a mortar & pestle or a food processor, important are high quality ingredients: Use good quality, aged Pecorino Romano and Parmigiano Reggiano cheeses, purchased in block form rather than pre-grated. The basil leaves should be fresh, plump and vibrant. The olive oil should be premium Extra Virgin Olive Oil. The pine nuts can be used natural, or toasted in a little olive oil beforehand to enhance their nutty flavour. TIPS FOR HOMEMADE PESTO: Storage: Homemade Pesto can be stored in the refrigerator for four days. Ttransfer the pesto to an airtight jar or container, add a layer of olive oil on top to cover the whole surface, and seal with an air-tight lid. Tip for storing fresh basil leaves: To store fresh basil leaves before making Pesto, wrap the unwashed leaves loosely in kitchen paper and place them in a plastic bag or a plastic container. When stored in the vegetable drawer of the fridge, the leaves will stay fresh for several days. Alternatively, place them with their stems into a jar with water. Freezing: Pesto can be frozen, but in this case omit the cheese.. Transfer the Pesto to an airtight container, cover it with a layer of olive oil, and freeze. Once thawed and ready to use, add the grated cheese and stir under. To portion and freeze pesto, spoon it into an ice cube tray. Once frozen, transfer the cubes to freezer bags and store them in the freezer. HOW TO MAKE GENOVESE-STYLE BASIL PESTO Vibrant, fresh, and nutty, with a beautiful scent, flavour and aroma of basil, cheese, pine nuts, garlic, and Extra Virgin Olive Oil. See also: TIPS FOR HOMEMADE PESTO INGREDIENTS: 50g basil leaves 100ml extra virgin olive oil 110g Cheese: half Pecorino Romano, half Parmigiano Reggiano 15g pine nuts 1-2 garlic cloves coarse sea salt Equipment needed: pestle & mortar, or food processor DIRECTIONS: 1) Gather all the ingredients. 2) Prepare the ingredients: Rinse the basil leaves under cold water and thoroughly dry them using paper towels, being careful not to bruise them to prevent discolouration. Grate the cheeses and chop the garlic into smaller pieces. 3) Make the pesto using one of the two methods described below: Using Pestle & Mortar: Add the garlic and pine nuts with a pinch of salt to the pestle & mortar, then crush and grind them into a smooth paste. Add a few basil leaves and 2-3 kernels of coarse sea salt. Crush the leaves into a paste using crushing, grinding and stirring movements. Gradually add all the basil and oil in small amounts, and continue grining, turning the mortar every so often 90 degrees against the grinding and stirring direction. Once all the basil and oil are incorporated and ground into a cream, and the basil releases bright green liquid, add the grated cheeses and olive oil, a little at a time, continuing to grind and stir until the cheeses are fully incorporated. Taste and add more salt if needed. Using a Food processor (better than a food blender): To prevent the pesto from heating during processing, chill the food processor's bowl and blade for 1 to 1 ½ hours in the refrigerator before use. Use the blitz or on-and-off function to process the ingredients. Add the basil, garlic and pine nuts to the bowl and blitz until roughly chopped. Gradually add the olive oil, blitzing after each addition until the pesto becomes a thick sauce. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and incorporate the grated cheese. 4) Using Pesto for Pasta: Cook your preferred pasta. Once the pasta is cooked, reserve some of the pasta cooking water before draining. Drain the pasta and put it back inside the pot. Add about 1 Tbsp of the water to the pasta, then add the Pesto and mix well. The water allows the Pesto to coat the pasta, but preventing it from being entirely absorbed, keeping the pasta moist. The starch in side the water, also adds a creamieness. Add more cooking water if needed, just enough so that the pasta does not feel sticky. 5) Serve : Serve the Pesto pasta with a dusting of freshly grated Pecorino Romano or Parmiggiano Romano. Pesto is a perfect sauce for HOMEMADE POTATO GNOCCHI , Linguine , Trofie , Spaghetti , and also a flavourful addition to Minestrone and Caprese . It can also be used to enhance the flavour of sandwiches and other dishes.
- DELICIOUSLY CREAMY MATCHA BANANA SMOOTHIE
Creamy, sweet, energizing, healthy, and satisfying, and full of earthy and umami flavours of Matcha green tea. Jump to RECIPE This smoothie is so easy and fast to prepare, yet it's delicious, nutritious, creamy and flavourful. Matcha adds intriguing earthy and umami flavours. Bananas, yoghurt, and milk provide bulk and creaminess, while oats make you feel full longer and add a thick, creamy milkshake-like texture. A splash of lemon juice brings a gentle tang, balancing the sweetness. The recipe is plant-based, using non-dairy milk and yogurt , but that is simply a personal choice. You can certainly prepare it with dairy products as well. About Matcha: Matcha is a fine powder ground from unfermented, steamed, and dried green tea leaves. In its highest quality, it is used for Japanese tea ceremonies. It imparts a strong, earthy, and umami flavour with a hint of bitterness, perfectly balancing the rich and sweet banana and milk flavours. The characteristic green colour and umami taste of the powder result from the tea leaves being grown in shade or covered during the last weeks before harvest, depriving them of light. This shaded growth boosts an increased production of chloroplasts, giving the leaves their vibrant green colour, as well as amino acids, contributing to the distinct umami flavour. Matcha can be bought in Japanese supermarkets, tea shops, and health food stores, and is also available as baking-grade powder. It comes in different qualities, and while higher-quality powder is more costly, its taste makes up for it. I recommend purchasing the best quality you are willing to invest in. How to prepare: DELICIOUSLY CREAMY MATCHA BANANA SMOOTHIE Creamy, sweet, energizing, healthy, and satisfying, and full of earthy and umami flavours of Matcha green tea. INGREDIENTS: Makes 2 large glasses: 1 ripe banana (fresh or frozen) 2 teaspoons Matcha powder 3 tablespoons (45 ml) non-dairy yogurt 300 ml rice milk, or other non-dairy milk 5 tablespoons oats 10-15 small ice cubes 1 tablespoon honey Optional: spritz of lemon juice Equipment: High-speed blender DIRECTIONS: Place all ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth. Adjust texture and sweetness: Depending on the ripeness and sweetness of the bananas, add more or less honey and adjust the sweetness at the end. Add more ice cubes or milk to adjust the texture. Optional: Add a splash of lemon for added tanginess.
- MATCHA ICE CREAM
Matcha, cream, and sugar, transformed into frozen deliciousness. A delicate and sophisticated, sweet yet slightly bitter ice cream, rich in earthy and umami flavour. Jump to RECIPE Matcha ice cream is a popular dessert in Japan and East Asia. It has a delicate and sophisticated taste: sweet, with a hint of bitterness, and full of herbal and umami flavour. It's often served with Tsubuan , a sweet paste made from red Adzuki beans, and the combination is delightful and intriguing. Matcha is a fine powder ground from unfermented, steamed, and dried green tea leaves. In its highest quality, it is used for Japanese tea ceremonies. It imparts a strong, earthy, and umami taste with a hint of bitterness, perfectly balancing the rich and sweet cream. The characteristic green colour and umami taste of Matcha result from the tea leaves being grown in the shade or covered during the last weeks before harvest, depriving them of light. This shaded growth boosts an increased production of chloroplasts, giving the leaves their vibrant green colour, as well as amino acids, contributing to the distinct umami flavour. Matcha can be bought in Japanese supermarkets, tea shops, and health food stores, and it's also available as baking-grade powder. It comes in different qualities, and while high-quality powder is more costly, its taste makes up for it. I recommend purchasing the best you are willing to invest in. The recipe calls for three tablespoons of Matcha, which is a lot, but it really brings out the green tea flavour and its lovely subtle bitterness. A generous pinch of salt intensifies the flavours and aromas. The recipe requires just a few ingredients and is very easy to make. The ingredients are combined, then the mix is left to chill, and finally churned. Matcha ice cream is perfect for making BOOZY MATCHA ICE CREAM AFFOGATO . If you have any leftover Matcha, try also: MATCHA SHORTBREAD BISCUITS , or MATCHA BANANA SMOOTHIE . RECIPE MATCHA ICE CREAM Matcha, cream, and sugar, transformed into frozen deliciousness. A delicate and sophisticated, sweet yet slightly bitter, earthy ice cream, rich in umami flavour. INGREDIENTS: Makes 4 Portions: 500 ml cream with 12-18% fat content (I used 250 ml full-fat cream and 250 ml full-fat milk) 110g caster sugar 3 tablespoons Matcha powder Generous pinch of salt DIRECTIONS: Gather all the ingredients. Combine the ingredients: Put the cream, Matcha powder, sugar, and salt into a saucepan and whisk vigorously with a hand whisk until the ingredients are completely dissolved in the cream. Bring mixture to a boil: Increase the heat and bring the mixture to a boil, whisking continuously until it starts to foam, then take it off the heat. Chill: Pour the mixture into a large bowl and place the bowl into cold water to cool it down. Once cooled, transfer it to the fridge to allow it to chill for approximately 2 to 3 hours. Churn : Pour the chilled mixture into the bowl of an ice cream maker and churn following the ice cream maker instructions. ( Or churn by hand: pour the mixture into a container and place it in the freezer. Remove and stir every 20 to 30 minutes for the next 2 to 3 hours to prevent large crystals from forming, keeping the ice cream smooth and creamy.) Freeze: Once thick and creamy, transfer the ice-cream in a container with a tight-fitting lid and freeze it for a minimum of three hours before serving. Serve : Take the ice cream out of the freezer and place it into the fridge for 20 to 30 minutes before serving, so that it is easier to scoop. Enjoy as dessert after a Japanese-style meal or Sushi, or use it to make BOOZY MATCHA ICE CREAM AFFOGATO .
- SPICED LENTIL & CARROT SOUP
A quick and simple, healthy, fresh, and flavourful soup, infused with a delightful Indian spice aroma from cumin and coriander - and a delicious whole-food plant-based dish! Jump to RECIPE There's nothing quite like a hearty comfort soup, especially during the chilly winter months, and particularly, when you are on a diet... Every year in January or February we try to fit in a couple of weeks of Detox* dieting, with the goal of eliminating the sins accumulated during Christmas and throughout the year from our bodies and waistlines. T his means a pure plant-based diet, and on top of that: no pasta or bread, no sugar, salt, or fat, no caffeine, black tea or wine - and: no chocolate: OUCH! The diet is whole-food plant based, which means we also avoid any processed foods, as well as plant-based processed products.* (*I am an enthusiastic follower of the Detox Diet, but not an expert. Please check online for more detailed information.) So what's left? Well, everything else!!! Legumes, vegetables, salads, fruits, nuts, seeds, fruit teas, smoothies, (banana N'ice cream - hurray!) and the list goes on! We have never gone hungry during this period but managed to lose a significant amount of weight every time and always felt bright-eyed and bushy-tailed at the end. After the low-caffein-brain headaches have gone, which may take a week, it's not as daunting as it seems, especially once you have accumulated a collection of delicious plant-based recipes. Also, one of my secrets to keep us happy and going during this time, is to switch flavour profiles and textures. I would apply the same basic recipe method, but with different flavour profiles: take lentils for example: they can be made Austrian-style, flavoured with onions and mustard, Punjabi-style, a more elaborate version with Indian spices, Italian-style with tomatoes, Mexican-style, the list goes one. The same can be made as a soup, a pureed soup, a sauce, a burger, etc... This super easy and quick Spiced Lentil & Carrot Soup is a perfect example of how spices can transform a couple of basic plant-based ingredients into a flavourful and interesting dish. The original recipe is from Carol Vorderman's: 'Detox Recipes ' book. A dietitian friend of mine suggested both the diet and the book to me many years ago, and that's when I made the recipe for the first time. I t has since become a staple and go-to dish in our house all year long, and all the family love it. It's great when you want to include legumes in your diet at any time of year. It's also a kind of pantry dish that I can rustle up in the last minute, as I almost always have red lentils, carrots, and onions at home. Carol Vorderman states in her book: "lentils contain protein and complex carbohydrates, soluble fibre, iron and B-Vitamins. The carrots are rich in beta-carotene that helps to protect from cancer and also benefits the skin..." So all the more reason to make this delicious soup... Spiced Lentil & Carrot Soup is super-easy and fast to prepare: the onion and garlic are fried, then the lentils, carrots, spices and liquid added, and the soup is left to cook until the lentils and carrots are soft. I believe the original recipe said to puree the soup, but I prefer the chew and crunch of the lentils and carrots. RECIPE: SPICED LENTIL & CARROT SOUP Recipe Source: Carol Vorderman's: 'Detox Recipes ' book Ingredients: Makes 6-8 portions: (the recipe can be halved, but I recommend the amount as stated below, as the soup warms up well on the next day) 2 onions, peeled and finely diced 3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely cut or minced 4 carrots, peeled and cut into thin rounds 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (omit for a Detox-version, see the *Note below) 2 teaspoons ground cumin 2 teaspoons ground coriander 300g dry red lentils 2 litres vegetable stock (or prepare from stock cubes following packet instructions) freshly milled black pepper to taste optional: juice of 1 lemon sea salt (omit for a Detox version) Equipment needed: large pot Directions: Gather all the ingredients. Cut the vegetables: Finely dice 2 onions. Peel and crush 3 garlic cloves. Wash and clean 4 carrots and cut them into thin rounds. Prepare the vegetable stock: Heat 2 litres of vegetable stock or prepare it from stock cubes. Sweat the onions and garlic in oil: Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large saucepan. Sweat the diced onions together with a pinch of salt over medium-low heat for about 10 minutes until soft and translucent, stirring occasionally. Add 3 minced garlic cloves and fry for another minute until fragrant, making sure not to burn them. *Note: for a Detox-version, you can omit the oil: fry the onion with a pinch of salt in a little water until translucent, adding additional water little by little and as necessary to keep the onion moist. Carrots do need a little fat though so we can absorb their benefits, so I always use a small amount of oil for frying. Alternatively, just add a bit of extra virgin olive oil on top of the soup later. Add the spices: Add 2 teaspoons ground cumin and 2 teaspoons ground coriander and cook for 1 minute, stirring continuously. Add the carrots, lentils and vegetable stock: Add 4 thinly sliced carrots, 300g red lentils and 2 litres vegetable stock. Bring to a boil, skimming off any foam that accumulates on the surface, then reduce the heat and simmer for 30-35 until the lentils are cooked and turn just a bit mushy. Check for seasoning: Season with freshly ground black pepper and additional stock cube (or salt) if necessary. Optional: add lemon juice. Serve: Serve in warmed soup bowls with a slice of lemon on the side.
- HOMEMADE POTATO GNOCCHI
L ight, fluffy, and delicate - and a true labour of love. These traditional Italian potato and flour dumplings are truly delightful. Fluffy and pillowy, with ridges and an internal cavity, they not only melt in your mouth but also perfectly hold the sauce, offering a burst of flavour and texture with every bite. I was intrigued about making them from stratch, and what was supposed to be a one-time attempt clearly became more than that. Potato Gnocchi require just a handful of basic, inexpensive ingredients, and are truly worth the effort. However, be warned: once you master them, you'll never return to store-bought! Jump to PICTURE RECIPE Jump to TEXT-ONLY RECIPE See also: TIPS FOR HOMEMADE POTATO GNOCCHI Gnocchi pair wonderfully with PESTO ALLA GENOVESE, a simple Tomato Sauce, and SAUSAGE AND PORCINI SAUCE. Making Gnocchi might seem intimidating at first, and shaping them requires some practice, but they are really not difficult. You'll quickly get the hang of it, and one batch provides plenty of practice. Ultimately, their quality makes up for the effort. I have seen 'lazy' versions where the dough is rolled into ropes, cut into pieces, and cooked without shaping. I prefer traditional Gnocchi with their ridges and thumbprint. All the rolling and shaping may take some time, but if you can spare it, make a larger batch and freeze them. This way they become a perfect, quick mid-week evening meal, especially as they can be cooked straight from frozen, just requiring a bit more cooking time. With a quick tomato sauce, good-quality store-bought, or HOMEMADE PESTO, and a sprinkle of freshly grated Parmesan, it doesn't get much faster and tastier! While Gnocchi should be pillowy-soft and light, they shouldn't really melt in your mouth; there should be a slight resistance with each bite. Since flour absorption, potatoes, and the size of eggs can vary, it's advisable to gradually add the flour to the dough until it is fluffy and light, yet compact and not sticky. If you're making gnocchi for the first time, you can test-cook a few pieces first to check the result. If they are too soft, simply add a bit more flour. Make sure to take note of the specific ingredients and amounts you used for future reference. Hot tip: Gnocchi with Pesto are a greaet side dish for a barbecue. (Skeptical Italian husband asking: why would you make them for a barbecue? And eating his words later, watching our guests happily devour them in sixty seconds alongside his expertly barbecued dishes). Now, get a great playlist or favourite podcast going, relax, and start rolling! Eva xoxox How to prepare HOMEMADE POTATO GNOCCHI Jump to TEXT-ONLY RECIPE See also: TIPS FOR HOMEMADE POTATO GNOCCHI Recipe adapted from: Giancarlo Caldesi's cookbook: Return to Tuscany: How to Make Gnocchi Signor Caldesi does not demonstrate how to shape Gnocchi into the classic form so I have added details and photos below. Additionally, I substituted nutmeg for the pepper in his recipe. INGREDIENTS: I prepare a large batch and freeze the leftovers for future use - see Tips below for more info. 1 kg starchy potatoes, unpeeled - preferably of similar size: King Edwards, Maris Piper, Desiree, etc (I read that red starchy varieties are ideal as they retain the potato better within the skin during boiling and are more flavourful. I used regular whie starchy ones.) 300 g '00' flour + extra flour for dusting 1 large egg 1 teaspoon salt freshly grated nutmeg more salt for boiling Equipment needed: Potato Ricer DIRECTIONS: Gather all the ingredients. Thoroughly wash the potatoes, then place them whole with their skins in a large pot and cover them with cold water. Bring the water to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer the potatoes until they are tender. The potatoes are ready when a knife can easily pierce them and they should slide off the knife effortlessly. If they cling to the knife, continue cooking. If your potatoes vary siginificantly in size, remove the smaller ones as they finish cooking to prevent them from becoming waterlogged. Drain the potatoes and peel them while they are still hot: use a kitchen towel to protect your hand from burns, and peel the skins off with a small knife. Press the peeled and still hot potatoes through a potato ricer or passa tutto (food mill). This will incorporate air, making the gnocchi fluffier. It is crucial to complete these initial steps quickly, as the hotter the potatoes, the softer the Gnocchi will be. Allow the riced potatoes to cool for a bit, then quickly mix in 1 egg. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and some freshly grated nutmeg, then stir. Incorporate two handfuls of flour to start with and mix well. Turn the dough out onto a work surface. Gently knead the dough, incorporating more flour as needed, until it becomes soft, smooth, and pliable. If the dough sticks to the work surface, use a dough scraper to remove the sticky pieces and knead them back into the dough. Avoid overkneading and excessive handling, as this will make the dough stickier and require additional flour. The total amount of flour used will depend on the type of potatoes, the size of the egg, and the flour used. Form the Gnocchi: cut off a small piece of dough. Dust the work surface with a bit of flour, then roll the dough piece into a long strand, approximately 2 cm thick. Cut the strand into 2 cm pieces. Gnocchi are often served in this simple form, but I prefer them with their traditional ridges and shape because they hold more sauce and also give you a different mouthfeel. To shape the Gnocchi, start by lightly flouring your hands and work surface. Take a piece of dough and then roll it over the tines of a fork to create the classic Gnocchi pattern and shape. To do so, hold the fork in one hand, with the tips of the tines resting on the work surface and the concave side facing up. Dip the tip of your thumb of the other hand in flour, place the Gnocchi on the top of the tines, and roll it downward, applying light pressure. As you press and roll down, the Gnocchi will begin to flatten slightly, but this downward movement will also make it roll itself around your thumb, forming a small cavity inside. The image above shows this in an exaggerated way; the opening does not need to stay like that. Usually, the rolling action closes the Gnocchi, or you can softly press it together at the end, leaving just a small opening. Arrange the Gnocchi on a floured surface. Continue with the remaining dough pieces adding them to the pepared surface in a single layer without letting them touch. It takes some practice, but with a dough made from 1 kg of potatoes, you'll have plenty of opportunity... and they don't all have to be perfect and identical; they'll all taste wonderful in the end. Let the Gnocchi rest for 20-30 minutes. This will help them maintain their shape better during cooking. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Once boiling, add salt. Cook the Gnocchi in small batches: shaking off excess flour before adding them to the water, then reduce the heat slightly and let them cook gently. The Gnocchi will float to the surface when ready, which takes just a couple of minutes. Use a slotted spoon to remove them and add them to the prepared sauce. Serve: Mix the Gnocchi well with the sauce and serve them with a sprinkle of freshly grated Parmesan or Pecorino Romano on top. TIPS FOR HOMEMADE GNOCCHI: Gnocchi consistency: While Gnocchi should be pillowy-soft and light, they shouldn't feel moussy in your mouth; there should be a slight resistance with each bite. Of course they should also not feel chewy or rubbery. Since flour absorption, potatoes, and size of eggs can vary, it's advisable to gradually add the flour to the dough until it is fluffy and light, yet compact. To ensure success, especially if you're making Gnocchi for the first time, you can test-cook a few pieces first to check the result. If they are too soft, simply add a bit more flour. Make sure to take note of the specific ingredients and amounts used, for future reference. Potatoes: Use starchy potatoes for this recipe like Maris Piper, King Edwards, or Desiree. Use potatoes of similar size. If your potatoes vary greatly in size, check the smaller ones for doneness first and take them out of the water once tender. Keep them warm by wrapping them in a kitchen towel until all the potatoes are cooked. Begin cooking the potatoes in cold water. This step is crucial because the potato skins might split if placed directly into boiling water. Avoid boiling them rapidly, as this could also cause the skins to break, and they could become waterlogged on the outside, before being fully cooked inside. Instead, bring the water to a boil, then immediately lower the heat and simmer the potatoes until they are tender. Potatoes are done cooking when a small knife can easily pierce them and they slide off effortlessly. If they cling to the knife, continue cooking. Press the potatoes through a ricer while they are still hot. First of all this is easier, as once they are cooled, they become harder and more difficult to pass throug, and it also adds to the fluffiness of the Gnocchi. Dough: The dough should be soft, pliable, and not sticky. The total amount of flour used will vary based on the type of potatoes, the size of the egg, and the flour used, so add the flour in batches. B ring the dough together rather quickly, developing just a bit of gluten in the flour. Avoid overkneading and excessive handling, as this may make the dough stickier and require additional flour resulting in tough Gnocchi. Make-ahead: Homemade Gnocchi are best when freshly made, cooked, and eaten right away. Although they can be stored in the refrigerator in an air-tight container for a short time, they may turn grey or become soft, increasing the chance of them sticking together. If you are making a larger quantity for immediate use, shape them and place them in a single layer, and without touching, on flour-dusted kitchen towels. Sprinkle them with a little flour and cover them with more kitchen towels. If left for a while, they might dry out a bit, but that's not a problem, they will just require a little more cooking time. If you don't plan to cook your Gnocchi within a few hours or on the same day, it's better to freeze them. Freezing: All the rolling and shaping may take some time, but if you can spare it, make a larger batch and freeze them. This makes for an ideal, quick, mid-week dinner, especially as they can be cooked straight from frozen, needing just a bit of extra cooking time until they rise to the surface. Paired with a quick tomato sauce, a high-quality store-bought or HOMEMADE BASIL PESTO, and a sprinkle of freshly grated Parmesan or Pecorino Romano, it doesn't get much faster and tastier! To freeze, place the freshly made gnocchi in a single layer on a tray lined with lightly flour-dusted baking paper. Place the tray in the freezer and freeze the gnocchi for 1 to 2 hours or until they are firm on the outside. This will prevent them from sticking together later. Transfer the gnocchi into freezer bags or sealable containers, shaking off any excess flour, and freeze until needed. Gnocchi can last in the freezer for several weeks. You can boil them directly from frozen; they will just need a little extra cooking time to rise to the surface. Sauces: Gnocchi can be made with any kind of pesto or sauce, even robust sauces, such as SAUSAGE & PORCINI SAUCE. Keep in mind that the ridges will absorb some of the sauce, so add a bit of pasta cooking water to the pasta or sauce, and especially to pesto, to keep it liquid enough if necessary. TEXT-ONLY RECIPE HOME MADE POTATO GNOCCHI Light, fluffy, and delicate - and a true labour of love. Recipe adapted from: Giancarlo Caldesi's cookbook: 'Return to Tuscany': 'How to Make Gnocchi' Signor Caldesi does not demonstrate how to shape Gnocchi into the classic shape so I added details and photos below. Additionally, I substituted nutmeg for the pepper used in his recipe. Jump to PICTURE RECIPE See also: TIPS FOR HOMEMADE POTATO GNOCCHI INGREDIENTS: I prepare a large batch and freeze the leftovers for future use. 1 kg starchy potatoes, unpeeled - preferably of similar size: King Edwards, Maris Piper, Desiree, etc (I read that red starchy varieties are ideal as they retain the potato better within the skin during boiling and are more flavourful. I used regular whie starchy ones.) 300 g '00' flour + extra flour for dusting 1 large egg 1 teaspoon salt freshly grated nutmeg extra salt for boiling Equipment needed: Potato Ricer DIRECTIONS: Gather all the ingredients. Boil the potatoes with their skins on: Wash the potatoes, place them with their skins on in a large pot and cover with cold water. Bring the water to a boil, lower the heat and simmer the potatoes until tender and can be pierced with a knife. Peel the potatoes: Drai n the potatoes and peel them while still hot. Pass the peeled and still hot potatoes through a potato ricer or passa tutto (food mill). This will incorporate air, making the Gnocchi fluffier. It is crucial to complete these initial steps quickly, as the hotter the potatoes, the softer the Gnocchi will be. Make the Dough: Allow the riced potatoes to cool slightly, then quickly mix in 1 egg. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and some freshly grated nutmeg, then stir. Incorporate two handfuls of flour to start with and mix well. Turn the dough out onto the work surface. Gently knead the dough, incorporating more flour as needed, until it becomes soft, smooth, and pliable, and no longer sticky. If the dough sticks to the work surface, use a dough scraper to remove the sticky pieces and knead them back into the dough. Avoid overkneading and excessive handling, as this will make the dough stickier and require additional flour. The total amount of flour used will vary based on the type of potatoes, the size of the egg, and the flour used. Form the Gnocchi: cut off a small piece of dough. Lightly dust the work surface with flour, then roll the dough piece into a long strand, approximately 2 cm thick. Cut the strand into 2 cm pieces. G nocchi are often served in this simple form, but I prefer them with their traditional ridges and shape because they hold more sauce and also give you a different mouthfeel. To form the Gnocchi, start by lightly flouring your hands and work surface. Take a piece of dough, dust it with a little flour, and then roll it over the tines of a fork to create the classic Gnocchi pattern and shape. To do this, hold the fork with one hand, with the tips of the tines resting on the work surface and the concave side facing up. Dip the tip of the thumb of your other hand in flour, place the Gnocchi on the top of the tines, and roll it downward toward the work surface, applying light pressure. As you press and roll down, the Gnocchi will begin to flatten slightly, but this downward movement will also make it roll around your thumb, forming a small cavity inside. The rolling action closes the Gnocchi, or you can softly press it together at the end, leaving just a small opening. Plave the Gnocchi on a floured surface. Continue this with the remaining dough pieces placing them on the pepared surface in a single layer without letting them touch. It takes some practice, but with a dough from 1 kg of potatoes, you'll have plenty of opportunity... and they don't all have to be perfect and identical; they'll all taste wonderful in the end. Rest the Gnocchi: Allow the Gnocchi to rest for 20-30 minutes. This will help them to maintain their shape better during cooking. Cook: Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Once boiling, add salt. Cook the Gnocchi in small batches, shaking off excess flour before adding them to the water. Reduce the heat slightly and let them to cook gently. The Gnocchi will float to the surface when ready, which takes just a couple of minutes. Use a slotted spoon to remove them and add them to the prepared sauce. Reserve some of the cooking water. Tip: Add some of the cooking water to your sauce for a creamy texture. In case of using Pesto, add 1 Tbsp of cooking water to the Gnocchi before adding them to the pesto. This will ensure that the Pesto stays creamy and the Gnocchi don't become too sticky. Serve: Mix the Gnocchi well with the sauce and serve them with a sprinkle of freshly grated Parmesan.
- GNOCCHI WITH SAUSAGE & PORCINI SAUCE
An earthy, meaty, rich, creamy and luxurious sauce, full of warmth, textures and Italian flavours, combined with soft and pillowy homemade Potato Gnocchi. Italian, fennel-flavoured sausages add a lovely meaty texture, earthy and nutty Porcini mushrooms a creamy and tender bite. Combined with rich, velvety cream, and the gentle flavour and delicate acidity of white wine, they form a rich, hearty and luxurious sauce. Perfect with HOMEMADE POTATO GNOCCHI a nd ideal for the colder season. Jump to: RECIPE TEXT RECIPE TIPS Similar to Penne alla Norcina , a traditional pasta dish from Umbria, Italy, containing Umbrian pork sausages and either mushrooms and/or black truffle, this dish falls under the category of Pasta Bianca , or White Pasta , prepared without tomatoes. Although pasta is typically served in Italy as a Primo , or starter, due to the richness of this dish, we tend to enjoy it as a main course, followed by a large bowl of salad. The dish is also a great starter for dinner parties. Both the sauce and the HOMEMADE POTATO GNOCCHI c an be made ahead of time. The sauce can be reheated quickly, and the Gnocchi take just a couple of minutes to cook, requiring minimal time and effort. Follow with a main of HONEY & THYME ROASTED PORK , with a side of MINI POMMES ANNA, HASSELBACK POTATOES , or GRATIN DAUPHINOIS , and a large bowl of leafy greens, just to give you some ideas. The sauce is relatively quick and easy to make: the dried mushrooms are rehydrated in water, the onions, chilli and garlic sautéed with a pinch of salt, then the sausage meat added and browned. The pan is deglazed with the wine. Meanwhile the drained and chopped mushrooms are fried and added to the pan. The cream and mushroom soaking liquid are added, and together with the seasoning, the sauce is left to cook gently until flavourful, creamy and indulgent. Combined with Gnocchi and a sprinkle of grated Parmesan or Pecorino, a truly Italian delight. TIPS and VARIATIONS: This recipe is made with dried porcini mushrooms. For this rich, creamy and sausage-flavoured sauce, dried Porcini are fine. However, you can certainly use fresh ones, or a combination of both. The sauce pairs wonderfully with HOMEMADE POTATO GNOCCHI , but of course you could also used shop-bought and also other pasta shapes, such as Pici , a traditional pasta from Tuscany, as well as penne, rigatoni, and others. I have made the dish numerous times and with a variety of different sausages: pork sausages, mixed pork and beef, and even Chipolatas , each resulting in a slightly different but delicious sauce. When I don't use fennel-flavoured sausages, I add a spoonful of dried fennel seeds to the onions at the beginning to make up for the missing flavour. I use fresh full-fat cream, with about 35% fat, and it works well. You can opt for double-cream if you like, but steer clear of low-fat cream, as the reduced fat content might cause the sauce to separate. A pinch of freshly grated nutmeg boosts the dish's earthy flavours. To manage the spiciness, I sauté a small dried chilli together with the onions and garlic to infuse the oil with spice. Once the oil is spicy enough, I remove the chilli. Optional: Add a splash of Truffle oil to the sauce at the end, or offer it at the table as an option for your guests. How to prepare: GNOCCHI WITH SAUSAGE & PORCINI SAUCE Jump to: RECIPE TEXT RECIPE TIPS Recipe based on : Katie Caldesi: How To Make A Sausage And Porcini Sauce INGREDIENTS: Makes 6 Portions 500g (18 oz) Italian pork sausages (or other pork, mixed pork & beef, or Chipolatas) 50g (1.8 oz) dried Porcini mushrooms 1 large, or 2 small red onions, finely diced 3 garlic cloves, crushed 1 small dried red chilli 100ml (3.4 fl oz) dry white wine 150ml (5.1 fl oz) full-fat cream Extra Virgin Olive Oil freshly ground black pepper freshly grated nutmeg sea salt HOMEMADE POTATO GNOCCHI , ca. 125g per person DIRECTIONS: Gather all the ingredients. Re-hydrate the mushrooms: Place the dried porcini in a bowl, cover with warm water and leave to soak until re-hydrated and soft, about 20 minutes. Prepare the remaining ingredients: Meanwhile, finely dice the onions. Crush the garlic with the back of a large knife and peel. Make an incision along the side of the sausages and remove their skins. Sauté the onion, garlic and chilli: Heat a large frying pan over medium-low heat. Add enough olive oil to cover the bottom of the pan. Add the onions, garlic and chilli together with a pinch of salt, and sauté gently until the onion is soft and translucent - about 10 minutes. Check the oil every so often and remove the chilli once the oil is sufficiently spicy for your taste. Add the sausage meat: Crumble the sausages into the pan. Stir and leave to fry and brown for a bit. Deglaze the pan: add the white wine and increase the temperature until the sauce starts to bubble. Simmer, until all the alcohol is evaporated. Drain, chop and fry the mushrooms: Meanwhile drain the mushrooms, reserving the soaking liquid, but making sure to leave any sand or residue on the bottom of the soaking bowl. Roughly chop the mushrooms. (Zero-waste suggestion: the mushroom water can be used for mushroom stock) Heat a second frying pan over medium heat. Add enough oil to just cover the bottom of the pan. Add the mushrooms and fry gently until they start to shrink. Season with pepper. Finish the Sauce: Add the mushrooms and cream to the sauce and stir well. Leave to heat through gently. In case the sauce is too thick, add some of the reserved mushroom liquid. Season with salt and pepper and a pinch of freshly grated nutmeg. Serve with HOME-MADE POTATO GNOCCHI or a short pasta of your choice, sprinkled with freshly grated Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano Reggiono. TEXT-ONLY RECIPE GNOCCHI WITH SAUSAGE & PORCINI SAUCE Gnocchi with Sausage & Porcini Sauce is a delicious, rich, creamy, and hearty dish, full of warmth, textures, and Italian flavours. Jump to: RECIPE TEXT RECIPE TIPS Recipe based on: Katie Caldesi: How To Make A Sausage And Porcini Sauce INGREDIENTS: Makes 6 Portions 500 g (18 oz) Italian pork sausages (or other pork, mixed pork & beef, or Chipolatas) 50 g (1.8 oz) dried Porcini mushrooms 1 large, or 2 small red onions, finely diced 3 garlic cloves, crushed 1 small dry red chilli 100 ml (3.4 fl oz) dry white wine 150 ml (5.1 fl oz) full-fat cream Extra Virgin Olive Oil freshly ground black pepper freshly grated nutmeg sea salt HOMEMADE POTATO GNOCCHI , ca. 125g per person METHOD: Gather all the ingredients. Re-hydrate the mushrooms: Place the dried porcini in a bowl, cover with warm water and leave to soak until re-hydrated and soft, about 20 minutes. Prepare the remaining ingredients: Meanwhile, finely dice the onions. Crush the garlic with the back of a large knife and peel. Make an incision along the side of the sausages and remove their skins. Sauté the onion, garlic and chilli: Heat a large frying pan over medium-low heat. Add enough olive oil to cover the bottom of the pan. Add the onions, garlic and chilli together with a pinch of salt, and sauté gently until the onion is soft and translucent - about 10 minutes. Check the oil every so often and remove the chilli once the oil is sufficiently spicy for your taste. Add the sausage meat: Crumble the sausages into the pan. Stir and leave to cook and brown for a bit. Deglaze the pan: add the white wine and increase the temperature until the sauce starts to bubble. Simmer, until all the alcohol is evaporated. Drain, chop and fry the mushrooms: Meanwhile drain the mushrooms, reserving the soaking liquid, but making sure to leave any sand or residue on the bottom of the soaking bowl. Roughly chop the mushrooms. (Zero-waste suggestion: the mushroom water can be used for mushroom stock) Heat a second frying pan over medium heat. Add enough oil to just cover the bottom of the pan. Add the mushrooms and fry gently until they start to shrink. Season with pepper. Finish the Sauce: Add the mushrooms and cream to the sauce and stir well. Leave to heat through gently. In case the sauce is too thick, add some of the reserved mushroom liquid. Season with salt and pepper and a pinch of freshly grated nutmeg. Serve with HOMEMADE POTATO GNOCCHI or a short pasta of your choice, sprinkled with freshly grated Pecorino Romano or Parmesan.










